Paris Fashion Week

PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

Fashion Weeks start and finish with Paris on the mind.

February 27, 2018


Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.

 

Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.

February 28, 2018


Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.

 

Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.

 

March 1, 2018


Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.

March 2, 2018


Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.

 

Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.  

 

March 3, 2018


Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.

 

Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.

 

March 4, 2018


Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty. 

 

Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.

 

March 5, 2018


Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.  

 

Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.  

 

March 6, 2018


Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection. 

The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW

A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial) on

 

Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.

 

How To Recover From Fashion Month

Photo: Elizabeth Lippman for The New York Times

Has Fashion Month Left You Feeling Like You've Been Hit By A Wrecking Ball?

Fashion Month is now over, and you are left with sore feet, dry skin, brittle hair, flaking soft nails, and the feeling that you could sleep for a week. We would suggest that you take a vacation, like a number of models do, but what if you don’t have the time or opportunity to do that? We have a few easy and affordable ways to recover, and get you back to your modeling career.

From The Inside Out
  • DRINK WATER!: Between all the flying and cold temperatures during fashion month, it is easy to get dehydrated. Since your body is 50-60% water, drinking water will give you an overall recovery. Avoid caffeine and alcohol for a little while as they increase dehydration.
Skin
  • LEAVE THE MAKEUP ALONE: With a month of makeup artists painting your face at least 2 or 3 times a day, let your skin breathe! Avoid wearing makeup - unless you have a job or modeling appointment that requires it. This will keep your pores clean and also minimize dryness. Plus, you may notice that your eyelashes and eyebrows will grow back!
Hair
  • PREVENT ADDITIONAL HAIR LOSS AND BREAKAGE: If you have suffered hair loss due to the hours of teasing, combing, crazy updos and blowdrying, avoid pulling your hair back into tight ponytails or buns. Instead, use small hair claws to keep a few strands back along the temples or do a low loose chignon, bun or pony if you need to pull it all back. We love No Slip Grip Tortoise Shell Hair Claws ($5.99 Claires.com)
Nails
  • NAILS IN THE BUFF: If you were given multiple manicures during fashion month that involved acrylics, gels, and rhinestones, your nails are probably paying for it now. Try to keep your nails bare and natural for as long as possible, so they can restore to their natural state. Of course, you can still visit the nail salon and get your manis and pedis, but request that your nails be buffed - not polished.
Feet
  • STAY OFF THE HEELS: After walking miles and miles in sky-high stilettos, it's time to stay grounded and let your poor feet rest. With the exception of any modeling duties, wear well-supported flats for a couple of weeks.

Living In The Echo Of Paris Haute Couture Week 2018

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

  The Paris Haute Couture Week finished only two weeks ago but we have a lot of things to remember..

New York Fashion Week commenced February 18th, but Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2018 still lingers on the minds of everyone in the fashion world. A lot of things happened and once more Paris, La Ville Lumière (The City of Light), has been able to demonstrate that it can draw attention not just for the breath-taking and skillfully designed clothes that are presented in every Paris Fashion Week. 

A new exhibition pays tribute to the late fashion designer Azzedine Alaïa, who passed away last November. The 41 dresses that are displayed are a short fashion design journey over time. The “Je suis couturier” exhibition runs until June 10th, 2018 at 18 rue de la Verrerie, 75004 Paris.

"Je Suis Couturier" Exhibition at the Association Azzedine Alaïa (Katerina Stamatopoulou)

Jean Paul Gaultier, l’enfant terrible, paid homage to Pierre Cardin, the fashion house where he started his career as a designer. The collection was a marriage of Cardin’s futuristic style and Gaultier’s provocative design. But, what stole the show was when Coco Rocha took the runway with her two-year-old daughter, Ioni Conran. A new girl comes in town, and Couture is now more adorable than ever.

After Dior’s surrealistic inspired collection at the Musèe Rodin, a masquerade party took place where all guests were dressed in their tuxedos, gowns and their playful face masks.

Smartphones have ruled the front row of the fashion shows, and so John Galliano took advantage of this ‘reality’ for his latest haute couture collection for Maison Margiela. A special holographic fabric was used in most pieces of the collection. When the viewer took a photo with flash, the fabric transformed from black nylon to a shimmering holographic panel. Enough psychedelic to prove that haute couture can be modern, too.

Ornate hats used to be the hallmark of haute couture several years ago. For this season, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Valentino’s creative director, utilized for the first-time hats that were created by the British hatter, Philip Treacy.

 

Fancy feathered hats in bright colors adorned models’ heads. Despite the old extravagant look, there was a modern spirit in the collection. Wearing a tank top and a pair of chinos with a huge feathered hat is a powerful statement. 

Paris Haute Couture Week was a true tour through the Parisian museums. Sometimes, it was like visiting the Louvre and Centre Georges Pompidou at the same time.

The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses

By Katerina Stamatopoulou

@katrinst

  It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.

In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.

Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.

As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.

Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.

A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance. 

“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our

time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.” 

“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”

But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.

STREET STYLE: Outerwear On Point During Men’s Paris Fashion Week

Another season of men's shows has come and gone.  The Fall 2018 collections were great but, we really fell in love with what was happening on the streets. In particular, the outerwear - which did not merely serve to protect against the elements, but also raised these industry professionals' outfits to the next level.

  • Photo: Imaxtree (Esquire)
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