Fashion Model

How Apps Are Changing The Way Models Socialize

Neon Coat - Instagram (@neoncoat ) Into App - Instagram (@intoapp)

Contributor and model, Robyn Williamson talks about two apps that host the ‘It’ events and parties during New York Fashion Week, and now shape the social lives of models.

By Robyn Williamson

@robynwilliamson

It has been an exciting time for models in New York City! Two different apps have launched and are in full swing; Into and Neon Coat. Fashion models can now get heavily discounted dinners, haircuts, work out classes, and much more. These apps help models, who are new in town, connect with fellow models, even make new friendships, and fully enjoy the city.

Into as well as Neon Coat accepts female and male models. Once you’ve downloaded the free apps,  follow the application instructions. You will need to prove that you have a social media following, as well as a model agency in town. To use these apps, you claim a featured business, tag them, and then post about your experience with the business on your Instagram.

Both apps have wonderful parties during Fashion Week, and help the models in town by giving goodie bags, food, and work out or meditation sessions. Being billed as a model’s passport to everything, you surely won’t be disappointed checking them out!

Into
During last season’s fashion week, Into had an influencer lounge at the Norwood Club here in New York. The Into App is for influencers around the world, and they also offer a London Fashion Week lounge as well. What makes the app great is that it works in many major fashion cities, and offers really cool deals.

Into hosted two days of events that featured food, fitness, beauty, and wellness.  My favorite products they partnered with were Winky Lux, because it is a makeup brand,  a new deodorant company called Myro, homesick candles, and Milo face oils. 

One of the activities included a lunch offered by a local vegan restaurant called Le Botaniste. The lucky attendees were given great goodie bags to take home, that included delicious food products. 

It was a great way to meet people,  relax, charge your phone, and get to know new products that are out on the market.

  • Model Dayna and I at the Mamacha event for Neon Coat Fashion Week

 

Neon Coat
One of the best things during the craziness of fashion week is that Neon Coat holds different events and parties to go to every day. These are great ways to meet new models and make new friends in the city! 

Last season, Neon Coat events lasted for nine days, the season before that was just seven. So there was a lot to see and to do – here are just some of the examples: 

*Recharge Lounge and Lunch, which included a special Neon Coat gift bag full of great products and food. It was the perfect swag bag to help us models during fashion week.

*Exclusive Neon Coat Yoga Classes, Chill Day with Mamacha, Meditation at Three Jewels with Kombucha.

*Chill Sunday events with Bumble BFF.

*Sundays nail salon.

*Food events with Beyond Sushi (vegan sushi), ice cream companies and more! 

*Neon Coat exclusive workout classes and infrared sauna sessions.

*Recharge lounge time with My/Mo Mochi Shea Terra organics (beauty products).

*Lunch event provided by local restaurant, Hunts and Fish club.

*Evening parties such as the Guardian Angels Charity Party, and the Wrap party for NYFW. 

I highly suggest downloading the Neon Coat app when you start working with your agency in New York because they have amazing offers that will make your experience so much more exciting. It will also be very interesting to see what they do this upcoming fashion week!

Simon Ungless: “Skin Color And Gender Should Not Be A Trend”

FMD sat down with Simon Ungless, a British ex-pat and MA graduate with Distinction from the prestigious Central St. Martins School in London. Amongst many career accomplishments, he collaborated with the late Alexander McQueen on the designer’s first ten collections and has led the department of fashion at the Academy of Art University for the last two decades. Ungless also runs two notable companies; When Simon met Ralph and Blackened.

FMD: The AAU Graduate show has become one of the most highly anticipated shows in the emerging fashion industry. We would love to know your take on how it has evolved over the years.

Simon: The show is really a venue to present the designers work in the most professional way possible. Coming to California, and to the Academy, I brought my experience of working with the shows in Europe, and I feel that the designers deserve to have the same professional platform. When people come to the show, I want to transport them to New York, London or Paris. I know some people had a problem with that because the very first show I did for the University somebody said, “It was very nice, but where were the little black dresses?” I’ve always loved shows and I like producing; so I want to have fun with that.

FMD: You’ve had numerous prestigious guests, and scouts from different fashion houses and design companies attend the shows over the years. Do you think it provides opportunities for the models in the show?

Simon: I think our show is good for the models, especially the newer kids because they get excited that Alexander McQueen is in the audience, or Sarah Burton, or Azzedine Alaïa, or whoever it’s been over the years. I remember a few years ago an agent called me after the show and thanked me because they got so many requests to see one of their models, so it really acted as a giant casting or go-see. But, I think that’s different now; the industry has changed. 

FMD: In what other ways do you think the show benefits the models?

Simon: Because we run the whole system of the shows exactly as you would in any fashion week, it’s a good experience for the new kids to feel what it’s going to be like when they are out there on the circuit. I think the models really enjoy doing our show. Just because it’s fashion, people assume that you have to be rude; I’m just not into it, we have fun. I treat the models as people, not just things to put clothes on. I think that it somewhat empowers the models doing our show to have some kind of self-worth, and I think this is a good training ground for them. 

FMD: Talking about New Faces, you have a very good eye for spotting new talent. What is it that attracts your attention?

Simon: When Mackenzie Drazan was brand new, she did tons of stuff with us for the show and the magazine. There was no need to direct her. It felt like, yes she was a brand new face, but she didn’t act like one – she could move. There’s also a girl right now, called Tiffany, who was scouted a week before our show last year, and it was like somebody who’d been on the circuit for three seasons walked into the go-see.  I love seeing the local kids go off and make their way up.

FMD: What do you look for during your casting process? Do you have a particular format?

Simon: No, I think it’s just that there are certain people who can light up the room when they walk in. I know that I also book on personality. I don’t want to be around people that are not pleasant – and you can pick up on that really quickly. I mean obviously for show; walk and body are important, because of the clothes and the fit, but also, people who are coming to the show want to see people that can make the clothes look good in some way. Just the general vibe, the personality.

FMD: Personality is huge for a model’s career; being on set and working with clients.

Simon: Yeah, I mean I don’t want anyone that I’ve never met before to walk in and be like we’re best friends, but just to have something, and to know that they’re a really good person. When you do a show, you’re not just with somebody for half an hour, you’re with them all day and I want to make sure that there is a good energy backstage. 

FMD: What’s your view on the rates for models doing shows?

Simon: When I go to New York and see what the rates are for the new kids there, sometimes I think “can’t we give them a bit more?” But, that’s what it is, that’s the rate for this model at this particular moment in their career – and I respect that. It’s the boy rates in New York, they get next to nothing. I mean our rates are the same; boys, girls everything is the same. But, when I see a brand new girl getting $900 for a show, and a boy who’s been doing it for a while is getting like $500, I think that’s really harsh. They are working just as hard. It doesn’t really make sense to me.

FMD: Talk about The Walk!

Simon: Well, I don’t like anything too diva. I think out here they call it sassy. I’m not into that. I just want something really clean. I very often have to tell models to stop and walk as if they are just walking down the street. 

FMD: You also cast kids for the show. Is working with child models very different?

Simon: It’s working with the parents. At the casting they were all there with their cell phones, egging their children on to play up. I watch how the parents act because they are going to be backstage, and I’m like; the kid is going to lose out on a job if the parent is acting overbearing. Parents can make or break their child’s modeling career. There was a couple of mom’s whose kids did not get requested for fitting purely because of how they behaved. The kids were great. The kids were fun. I just didn’t want the parents backstage for eight hours… 

Simon Ungless with his team during fittings - photo by Danielle Rueda, courtesy of Academy Of Art University

FMD: What is your direction or inspiration when casting for the shows in New York and San Francisco?

Simon: My direction for casting is, “Would these kids hang out? Do these kids look like they go to an art school in San Francisco?” Our students are coming in from all over the world; we’re really international and diverse. I’ve always wanted that in the casting, I’ve never been into traditional beauty. I use a casting director in New York. It’s important to find somebody that you can see eye to eye with, and have the same viewpoint. It’s easy in New York, because you have however many thousands of models trying to get into shows for fashion week.

FMD: How do you think casting effects the Industry, and vice versa?

Simon: If somebody puts a particular vibe on the runway, the next season, every agency has three of that model. It’s like right now if you don’t have a transgender model in your casting, you’re not being completely inclusive. I don’t ever want anyone to tell me that I have to book a certain type of model, because it is a trend, and it’s really disrespectful to call somebody’s skin color or gender a trend. We’ve had transgender models in our shows, but sometimes I haven’t found out until two days after, and it doesn’t matter. Now people in the Industry make it a big thing because they think it’s a trend. Transitioning your sex is not a trend. Skin color and gender should not be a trend. I try to be sensitive about all this. I want our students and the general public to see themselves on the runway. That’s why our shows will always be super diverse. 

FMD: What changes, if any, did you make to the production for this year’s graduate show?

Simon: We know that there needs to be a change in fashion and we’ve tried to bring change to the students with what they do, and you will see that in their collections. Also, the portfolio review is now the day before, and it really is an industry review, not a cocktail reception half an hour before the show. The education model that we’ve worked off has been handed down to us over the past eighty years, and everyone does the same thing but complains about it. I thought this year we’ve got to start breaking this mold, this expectation of what fashion education is. 

FMD: What do you see for shows in the future?

Simon: Something I wanted to do this year was to reduce the carbon footprint for the show, in any way shape or form. Again, another trend – everyone’s talking about sustainability, but I want to go deeper than that. Even transporting the collection from here to another venue is so unnecessary. If you think about the upcoming designer resort shows that will happen in some crazy location. Imagine how much money and carbon footprint those shows created flying two hundred journalists from wherever they are in the world! I think everyone needs to think slightly differently.
I want to do more in the way of moving image and photography. We’ve been doing that with the New York group. It’s had a really nice effect on them because they have different marketing collateral to use. A few years ago we did a stop-motion animation with one of the design students, which kind of brought the house down!
Last season I did a couple of things focused on movement and shapes with a model in New York. The video is ten seconds long, and I put it on Instagram and people were like: “OMG who shot that? That’s genius.” Well, it was just a film on my phone. I want to keep moving it forward and doing new things that people and the industry can relate to. It also has to be quick and easy because people are now just next, next, next. 

FMD:  So it’s social media and society’s need for instant gratification that is affecting the future of the industry?

Simon: That’s why nothing sells in the stores anymore. You see everyone’s Instagram of the collections, then next week you see them again, and you’ll say I don’t want to buy that, it feels really old, I want to see something new already. I’m trying to make things more containable. I really noticed during New York fashion week about five years ago, the lack of attention people have for the show. You see that people are not looking at the show. They are documenting everything from their phone. So you don’t even need to be there, as you just saw it through your screen. I get annoyed when I’m backstage; the shows about to start, I look up at my monitor, and all I see is everyone’s got their cameras up. I don’t see them paying attention. They are not present enough to look at all the work those kids have done to make the show. Just show them some respect, and enjoy it.

Editorial: Viva L’Italia

Streetwear Rules Spring Summer 2019 In NYC

By Robyn Williamson

@robynwilliamson

Streetwear took over the New York Spring Summer 2019 runways this show season. Contributor and model, Robyn Williamson highlights her favorite collections.

Just In XX (Fashion Week Online) C+plus SERIES (Vrai Magazine) Semir x C.J. Yao (Now Fashion) Taoray Wang (Vrai Magazine)

Taoray Wang
This was such a beautifully put together show and probably my favorite that I saw! I loved the pops of pink, and I thought the clothes were very wearable and timeless pieces. The collection was named “Bloom” a symbol of the flowers that grow underwater, in the depths of the coldest tundra and through the narrowest cracks of the sidewalk. Strong and delicate, she always finds her way.

 

Just In XX
Taiwanese streetwear designer, Justin Yu-Ying Chou believes that “beauty should not be constrained to one standard.” I saw a lot of streetwear this season, and Just In xx was no exception! The runway was very diverse, and I loved the stripes he had in his collection. 

Finales (Footage by Robyn Williamson)

 


Semir x C.J. Yao
More streetwear and comfy clothes! I really liked the hair in this show, and the models looked like they had a blast. I thought the silver and red really stood out, and the rain jackets were fun. 

 

C Plus Series
From designer C.T. Liu who hails from Taiwan, C plus Series explores the concept of simplicity without over-complicating. This was streetwear but seemed elevated. Not as sporty as the rest I saw. A lot of outfits this season were paired with sneakers on the runway. I am kind of glad as I run around New York a lot, and I prefer to wear running shoes myself! Textures, blazers, neutrals and shimmery shredded dresses. For the women who work in the urban jungle. 

 

What Is Catalog Modeling?

Pottery Barn Teen Catalog (2013)

Target "Back To School" Catalog (2014)

J.Jill Catalog Cover (2014)

Buck & Buck Catalog Cover (2018)

When we think of catalogs, we usually think of Target, REI, Bed Bath and Beyond and Walmart. There are hundreds of mail order and online catalogs selling a variety of merchandise; clothing, outdoor equipment, and even Halloween costumes. Their purpose is to entice customers to buy products, using visual and written descriptions – since they are not purchased from inside a brick-and-mortar store.

The model casting is based on the product that the client is selling. Models can range from children all the way up to seniors. Some clients require their models to have specific skills or interests; such as a sportswear client might look for professional or amateur athletes. Nevertheless, all clients want models who are approachable and move well in front of the camera.

Nordstrom Anniversary Sale Catalog Cover (2015)

Art Directors are typically responsible for booking models, though photographers and stylists can also be given the task. Art Directors gather their creative teams and ensure that their marketing visuals are properly executed. They also maintain an ‘approved’ board, displaying pictures of all the models that they consider for their shoots. If you are ‘approved’, you have the potential to work with that client annually, monthly, or even every week.

Models who get booked on a regular basis can receive significant annual incomes. As a result, catalog clients are considered the bread and butter of the modeling world. Day rates are substantially higher than editorial jobs because catalog work is more driven by advertising, and the photos from these shoots are not always portfolio worthy. However, the rate will vary depending on the client’s budget, as well as the model’s experience and the strength of his or her portfolio.

 

Like many other shoots, catalog jobs can be held in a studio or on location. If a client shoots consistently throughout the year, they may have an in-house studio and production team. Because outdoor shots are popular in catalogs, some clients travel to another state or abroad to get the appropriate setting and weather conditions. English and German clients have been known to shoot their summer collections in South Africa or Miami, due to consistent warmer climates and sandy beaches.

A model’s job is to emphasize the clothing or product while making it look natural. For example, you may be asked to use kitchen or gardening appliances, or pretend to be socializing with friends. But, for clothing, the movement is fluid and continuous. The most common facial expression seen in catalogs is a smile. However, when a model needs to be serious, it is usually done with a soft, pleasant look. Although the photographer and art director will give you direction, you will be expected to have a ‘flow’; making subtle adjustments to your poses. A slight move of your hand, a tilt of the head, or a change of facial expression will give the client a variety of shots to choose from. Furthermore, if you are able to do this quickly and efficiently, you’ve just increased the chances of the client wanting you back.

REI Fall Sale Catalog (2013)

Spirit Halloween Catalog (2015)

Nike Women's Fall Catalog Cover (2006)

Ikea Catalog (2017)

The No Makeup Makeup Tutorial

Makeup Artist, Diane Catorc, Shows Us How To Create The Perfect "No Makeup Makeup" Look.

Sought-after hair and makeup artist, Diane Catorc, has been in the business for twenty years. Naturally, she has picked up numerous tips along the way. We asked her how she creates the “no makeup makeup” look – which is a model’s go-to for castings and digitals. Check out the tutorial video above to watch Diane give step-by-step instructions while demonstrating on model, Julia Locatelli. We’ve been practicing it ever since, and now all of us at FMD are sporting our effortless glows!

Breathe and Relax! The Power Of Meditation

Meditation with Hannah Tokuno

Hannah Tokuno has returned to give us some Ohmmmmmm. The Californian model has been practicing Yoga and Meditation for almost 15 years and says that it clears her mind and acts as a great stress reliever.

 

Modeling can be challenging, and at times soul destroying. It's not easy to let the effects of competition and rejection roll off your back. Therefore, it is important to include activities in your day-to-day life that make you happy.

 

Meditation is one of the best ways to generate calm. It also allows you to focus on your goals and positive thoughts, and manifest them into your reality. If you've never tried it before, now is the time! Find a nice quiet spot to sit or lie down, then let Hannah teach you how to meditate in the video below.  Namaste.

 

Mother Agent: Stars Management

Bathing Suits: Finding The Right Fit

Finding The Right Fit
Miranda Kerr for The Edit Magazine. Photographed by Mariano Vivanco

The bikini will be one of your most crucial casting outfits - and it should be with you at all times!

 

A bathing suit is a key item in a model's wardrobe, and not because models spend all their time working on their tans by the pool or on the beach. Both agents and clients alike will often request that you wear a two-piece bathing suit while shooting digitals or doing a runway walk for castings. This is so they can see your figure without it being hidden by clothing or Photoshop. They will also be able to see your skin tone and spot any birthmarks, scars, or tattoos that could show during a booking.

However, the trick to nailing your digis and castings is by making sure that you have a bikini that fits perfectly and looks great. Here are a few tips:

 

  1. Choose a suit in a solid color as patterns can be off-putting.  Black is the choice among models (and agents).
  2. If you want to branch out a little with some color; for those with a dark to medium skin tone, use brighter colors like turquoise, red or yellow. For light skin tones, stick to deep, dark colors like dark green, purple or navy.
  3. As a model, you always want to accentuate long legs - choosing high-cut bottoms will help.
  4. Get the right fit. Make sure your bathing suit does not cut into you- which can be unflattering, as well as one that is too loose and saggy. We recommend side-tie string bikini bottoms. Not only can you keep them high on your hip, but you can also adjust them to fit your body perfectly.
  5. To accentuate your hips and bust, consider a wider band around the bottoms, and a halter or tie-front top. They will draw the eyes to both areas.
  6. If your hips are wider than your bust, wear a string-tie bottom with a halter or bandeau top to bring attention to the bust.
  7. When in doubt, go for a classic black triangle string bikini. Everyone looks good in one of these!
  8. Lastly, check your insecurities at the door. Rock your bikini with all the confidence a casting room can fit.

A little bikini inspiration....

  • GOOSEBERRY So Chic Long Island Triangle Bikini Top with Tanga Bikini Bottom. www.gooseberryintimates.com

Summer Beauty Trends 2018

By Katerina Stamatopoulou, MA Fashion Journalism Academy of Art University

@katrinst

Everything we need to know about summer beauty 2018. 

Vie photographed by Max Abadian for ELLE Canada

Every summer we love to look more beautiful, with a glowing and hydrated face and body. Golden and bronze shades, earthy tones and exotic scents are the musts of every summer. But, what about this summer’s beauty trends?

MAKE UP

URBAN DECAY Disco Queen Holographic Disco Highlighter Stick

 

 

For this summer’s makeup, you must be brave and get lost in the magic and mystery of makeup art. Colors are bright, exotic with an ultra-touch texture. The unicorn trend is still going strong, with a wide range of holographic makeup products. Loud and waterproof eyeliners promise to give a bold and bright look, even at the beach.

DIOR Diorshow On Stage Liner

THE NATURAL GLOW

 

But, let’s not forget that the nude look is always in favor during the summertime – much like florals are for a spring wardrobe. Eyeshadows and lipsticks in such hues can offer a healthy, natural-looking bronzed glow for every skin tone. While talking about that glow, many beauty brands have created key face and body products this summer. Offering an iridescent, warm, eye-catching glow with hues of bronze, gold and rose gold, when applied to the skin.

FENTY BEAUTY Fairy Bomb and Highlighter

SUMMER SCENTS

DIOR Escale à Portofino

 

 

 

 

Summertime prefers more sheer, and transparent scents. Colognes are back with a fresher spritz-weight for a lighter aroma and a longer lasting eau de parfum strength. Citrus based notes are a gentler and more elegant approach.

SUN PROTECTION

 

 

Of course, we should never forget to wear our sunscreen protection. Face and body sunscreen is always the big summer trend we should never neglect since it keeps us healthy and looking beautiful under the bright summer sun.

COOLA Sunscreen and After-Sun Care

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