Fashion Photography Power Duos
The most influential photography couples of the fashion industry right now.
photo collage by Katerina Stamatopoulou, 2018.
Fashion photography, whether in print or online, will always capture humans’ attention and create emotions. Since its earliest days and the invention of photography at the beginning of the 19thcentury, fashion photography expressed the photographer’s vision about style, attitude, makeup, story of the subjects, lifestyle and in this way it attracted the attention of the viewers.
During its long history, there have been many photographers who have served this creative means of fashion as art. From legends like Horst P. Horst and Cecil Beaton to Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin who inspired more recent ones like Steven Meisel and Peter Lindbergh.
But, apart from the solo artists of fashion photography, there are also some couples who, through their creative mood and love for this magical world, create unique photos together that leave their mark. Such, photography couples are the ‘Power Duos’ of Fashion Photography.
PORTER magazine, Issue 2, 2014 (inezandvinoodh.com)
TOM FORD RTW, FW2016 (inezandvinoodh.com)
VOGUE March 2017 (inezandvinoodh.com)
Inez & Vinoodh
Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin have been working together since 1986. The power duo from the Netherlands met as students at the Amsterdam Fashion Academy in the 1980s. They collaborated for the first time when Matadin, then fashion designer, was looking for a photographer for his lookbook. From then on, they not only became photographic partners, but they also became partners in life.
They have been digital photography pioneers, and they have invented their own personal style. YSL, Balmain, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Jean-Paul Gaultier, and many other houses have collaborated with them for their campaigns. Their award-winning work appears in countless fashion magazines; Vogue, Vogue Italia, W, Visionaire, Vanity Fair, and Harper’s Bazaar to name a few.
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Mert Alas, INTERVIEW magazine, 2014 (interviewmagazine.com)
Mert & Marcus, Calvin Klein Underwear, 2015.
Mert & Marcus, LOVE magazine, 2013 (thelovemagazine.co.uk)
Mert & Marcus
Born in the same year, but in different countries with very different cultures. Mert Alas was born in Istanbul, Turkey, and Marcus Piggott was born in Wales, UK.
They first met in 1994 in England while Piggott’s was a photographer’s assistant and Alas was a fashion model. They worked together a couple of times, and in 1999 they decided to join forces.
The strong use of color brought by Alas’s Turkish heritage and Piggott’s expertise in art and antiques create a unique, highly polished, hyperreal fantasy outcome. They have worked for numerous fashion and beauty houses such as Lancome, Missoni, and Fendi. Also, Vogue Paris, Love Magazine, and The Gentlewoman are some of the magazines that have hosted many of Mert and Marcus’ photos on their pages.
Cattelan & Ferrari, KENZO FW2013 (toiletpapermagine.org)
Cattelan & Ferrari, NEW YORK magazine, August 2017 (toiletpapermagazine.org)
Cattelan & Ferrari, KENZO FW2014 (toiletpapermagine.org)
Maurizio Cattelan & Pierpaolo Ferrari
“We would like to evoke familiarity and disgust at the same time. We desire to bring seemingly normal situations to their very extreme”, says the provocative Italian photographic couple during an interview with Dazed and Confused. Cattelan is a contemporary artist and Ferrari is the photographer of this multi-tasking duo, who are also the founders of the biannual magazine Toiletpaper. They are more well-known for Kenzo’s surreal campaigns and their longstanding collaboration with MGSM.
Their breaking-down-the-rules-of-beauty and cheeky work have made appearances in fashion magazines such as W, New York Magazine, Vogue, Elle, and Dazed&Confused.
Designers In Film: The Relationship Between Fashion And Film
Since the very early days of cinema, fashion designers have helped create Hollywood style icons.
Audrey Hepburn in "Breakfast at Tiffany's" wearing Givenchy. (Filmsane)
The relationship between fashion and film has always been a close one. Many renowned fashion designers are responsible for a number of iconic key pieces worn by film stars. In turn, several film stars became muses of luxury fashion houses. These two worlds share commonalities such as glamour and the pursuit of aesthetics.
On 20th March 2018, a great French fashion designer and couturier passed away at the age of 91. Hubert de Givenchy, “Le Grand Hubert” as the French called him, was an image maker who created style icons. He dressed Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy. In 1954, the collaboration between Givenchy and Hepburn for the costumes in Billy Wilder’s film Sabrina was the beginning of a long-lasting friendship. Everyone remembers Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961) standing in front of the window of Tiffany’s wearing her little black Givenchy dress and a pair of oversized sunglasses.
Hepburn in a 1958 fitting with designer Givenchy at his Paris atelier. (Hollywood Reporter/ Everett Collection)
Many other collaborations between these two magical worlds came up in the years to follow. In 1967, Catherine Deneuve in Luis Bunuel’s movie Belle de Jour marked the acquaintance of the actress and the thirty years old designer, Yves Saint Laurent.
Catherine Deneuve wearing YSL in "Belle de Jour". (Clothes On Film)
Back in 1982, Marc Bohan for Dior designed a dress with a big bow at the back, for the movie Tout Feu, Tout Flamme and worn by Isabelle Adjani.
Isabelle Adjani wears Dior in "Tout feu tout flamme". (Isabelle Adjani Blog)
There have been many other eye-catching and influential costumes in cinema that generated fashion and style icons. Diane Keaton in Woody Allen’s movie Annie Hall (1977) promoted Ralph Lauren’s trend-setting masculine style.
Ralph Lauren dresses Diane Keaton for Woody Allen's "Annie Hall". (E! Online)
Giorgio Armani’s suits for American Gigolo (1980) made Richard Gere the ultimate best-dressed male of the ‘80s by far.
Moreover, we should not neglect the Vivienne Westwood wedding dress that was worn by the most stylish single woman of New York, Carrie Bradshaw (aka Sarah Jessica Parker) in the Sex and the City (2008) movie.
The fascinating journey of fashion in films is special and looks like a fairytale. Designers became well-known through their creations that appeared in films and muses emerged by wearing their masterpieces in films.
PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.
February 27, 2018
Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.
February 28, 2018
Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.
Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.
March 1, 2018
Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.
March 2, 2018
Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.
March 3, 2018
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.
March 4, 2018
Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty.
Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.
March 5, 2018
Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.
Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.
March 6, 2018
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection.
The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW
A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial) on
Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.
Multi-Tasking Makeup: For when you need to apply on the fly!
Do you find yourself frantically slapping on makeup in the car, train, bus or whatever mode of transport that won’t get you to your appointment fast enough? Do you end up with makeup smudged all over your face and clothes, rather than it being beautifully applied to all the right places? Fear not of the panda eyes or slapdash army look anymore. We’ve got some fantastic products to show you that, aside from looking stunning on your face, are multi-tasking, portable, and easily applied without the mess.
Ph: Kendra Spears for Vogue Paris November, 2012. Photographed by Lachlan Bailey, styled by Claire Dhelens, makeup by Yadim Carranza and hair by Rudi Lewis.
Nudestix Magnetic Matte Eye Color - These fabulous 3-in-one pencils, prime, color, and line your eyes. It's easy to blend with your fingers, but it also has a handy sponge tip on the other end. $24 www.nudestix.com
Chanel Les Beiges Colour Stick - Not only does it feel light and nongreasy on the skin; this colour stick can be applied to the lips, cheeks, and eyes to give you a subtle rosy glow. $45 www.chanel.com
Benefit They're Real! Lengthening Mascara - This award-winning mascara does what it's supposed to do; curls, lengthens, volumizes, and lasts all day. Additionally, if the color matches your brows, you can wipe the wand after using it on your lashes and groom your brows. $24 www.benefitcosmetics.com
Kat Von D Beauty Lock it Concealer Creme - The wand helps with light, speedy application, and this concealer also has the best coverage. $26 www.katvondbeauty.com
YSL Beauty Touche Éclat - An oldie but goodie! This magical highlighter pen will brighten your face in an instant. It takes away signs of fatigue and can cover up small blemishes and redness. Its packaging is incredibly portable, making it easy to reapply throughout the day. $42 www.yslbeautyus.com
Clinique Quickliner™ For Eyes - Whether you smudge it or draw defined lines, it glides on smoothly and stays on all day. It also has a very handy smudging tool. Plus, it doesn't require a sharpener! $17.50 www.clinique.com
M.A.C Studio Quicktrik Stick - The double-ended Quicktrik Stick has a multitude of uses. It provides highlighting, contouring, bronzing, and blush- and not one brush needed. This is the ideal on-the-go product that can pretty much do your whole face. $19.20 www.maccosmetics.com
Dior Fix It Colour - Looks like a traditional lipstick, but it is actually a 2-in-1 primer and color corrector. It glides on smooth and lightweight and takes away the appearance of redness and dark circles. $36 www.dior.com
Smashbox L.A. Lights Lip & Cheek Color - An illuminator that can be applied to lips, eyes, and cheeks to give you a gorgeous glow. It also feels lightweight, but has buildable color, and has a sponge at the end of the tube for blending. $29 www.smashbox.com
Givenchy Beauty Phenomen'eyes Mascara - The spherical brush seriously captures every single lash without leaving them clumpy - and you won't need to spend time separating them either. It is a perfect mascara for a natural look, and the compact tube is easy to carry around. $32 www.barneys.com
The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses
It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.
In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.
Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.
As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.
Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.
A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance.
“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our
time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.”
“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”
But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.
