Is the Fashion Industry Changing?
While social conditions change, fashion is trying to keep up with them. There’s a lot to be done, but some important moves have already been made.
VOGUE British May 2018 (cover)
The world is changing rapidly, and fashion is one of the sectors that need to adapt and demonstrate determination and consistency. Furthermore, like many other industries, the fashion world is now primarily influenced by social media, particularly Instagram. Thanks to this social media application, the increasing power of the “boy or girl next door” image is taking over. Even supermodels and celebrities seek to look like everyday people.
Since mass media influences the society around us, it would be inconceivable for it not to influence fashion. It seems that the previous limitations of age, size, race, and sex don’t play such an important role in the fashion industry anymore. Perhaps it is beginning to change slowly, but steadily, and accepting the diversity within it. Along with the aid of a few progressive designers who seek the approval of the consumers.
It’s worthwhile observing the last issue of British VOGUE (May 2018). Nine models, each in their own way, presented a different aspect of diversity in fashion. Introducing a bolder future of the industry. Showing that models are human beings encountered in everyday life and not just ethereal beings who could be found only in fairy tales and on catwalks. Finally, fashion is asking for more nonwhite, plus-size, trans, and mature models.
Olivia Anakwe at Marc Jacobs Fall 2018 (thefashionspot.com)
Racial, gender and sexual diversity have become more and more obvious in fashion shows and magazines. According to thefashionspot.com, during the Fall 2018 Fashion Week, more models of color walked the runway than ever before, and since Teddy Quinlivan came out last September, the number of transgender model castings in New York have jumped from 12 to 31.
Ariel Murtagh at Calvin Klein Fall 2018 (thefashionspot.com)
Ashley Graham Dolce&Gabbana AltaModa 2018 (harpersbazaar.com)
In a recent interview for WWD, Tom Ford highlights the fact that models have always been the same as the sample size that designers and fashion houses worked with, and he continued by saying that, “if they don’t fit the clothes, they don’t get the job.” But, the reality is now very far from what the designer states. The last few years have seen a rapid growth of the plus-size market, and the fashion industry knows very well what to do. Ashley Graham, Katy Syme, and Stella Duval are three of the top plus-size models who many luxury brands choose for their shows. Listening to the consumers’ needs is something that should be done by all brands.
IsabellaRossellini (dailymail.co.uk)
At the age of 43, Isabella Rossellini lost her contract with the French luxury cosmetics house, Lancôme, only to regain it at the age of 63. While on the Skavlan Talkshow, Rossellini describes the new female CEO telling her that “Women felt excluded, they felt rejected. And we really want to change the communication and include all women. And define beauty differently than looking young”. In the movie Death Becomes Her (1992), Rossellini plays the mysterious, always-stay-young Lisle Von Rhuman. Her co-stars Meryl Streep and Goldie Hawn do anything to stay forever young and beautiful, but with a price. Is this what every woman desires to be? Forever young or forever herself? But, that’s another article to write. Now, at the age of 60 something, Rossellini looks more accessible to women in her age group. Believe it or not, beauty brands have turned a new page. Through their ads, they are not only promoting beauty, but also the spirit and the confidence a woman should have in order to look and feel beautiful. By hiring women in their mid-50s and 60s as faces of their beauty campaigns, they speak directly to the hearts of women a similar age.
Fashion is an integral part of our everyday life and its reflection. Social conditions and data are changing, and fashion must keep up in order to serve our needs. But, also respond appropriately to key questions that have arisen concerning the fashion industry.
Grandmasters of Fashion
Lately, the fashion scene looks like a chess game. Who will make the smartest next move?
Alexander McQueen Spring 2005 Fashion Show (marieclaire.co.uk)
Within the last few months, there has been intense mobility in the fashion world. Designers have come and gone from one fashion house to another. Some others preferred to split from the luxury group they once used to be under. Everyone is moving like pawns in a chess game.
Riccardo Tisci | Photo- Inez and Vinoodh (BoF)
The first move was made by Riccardo Tisci and Burberry. In early March, the British luxury brand announced that Riccardo Tisci would be the new Creative Officer. Tisci succeeded Christopher Bailey who after 17 years decided to leave the company.
“Riccardo is one of the most talented designers of our time. His designs have an elegance that is contemporary and his skill in blending streetwear with high fashion is highly relevant to today’s luxury consumer. Riccardo’s creative vision will reinforce the ambitions we have for Burberry and position the brand firmly in luxury,” said Marco Gobetti, Burberry’s chief executive.
“I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand, I am honored and delighted to be joining Burberry and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti,” said Tisci.
Kris Van Assche gets studious in the Dior Homme studio. (WWD)
The next strategic move was made by Dior Homme as Kris Van Assche exited after 11 years at the brand but he’ll take up a new role within the LVMH Group, according to WWD. Kim Jones will undertake the duty of artistic director for Dior Homme, and according to sources, he will present his first collection in June 2018.
“I am deeply honored to join the house of Dior, a symbol of the ultimate elegance,” said Jones.
Kim Jones (BoF)
Virgil Abloh (BoF)
And as Kim Jones moved to the Dior team, it was Louis Vuitton’s turn to shake things up. Virgil Abloh will now be the new artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear. The founder of the haute streetwear brand Off-White and Kanye West’s longtime creative director announced that he feels honored in accepting that position. He finds that the house’s heritage and creative integrity are the main key inspirations. So, his main goal would be to present them alongside with nowadays.
StellaMcCartney (the guardian.com)
After 17 years in a joint venture with the luxury goods group, Kering, Stella McCartney decided to make a very smart move and buy Kering’s 50% stake in her fashion label. “It is the right moment to acquire the full control of the company bearing my name,” said the designer. Rumour has it that Sir Paul McCartney has helped her financially to get the Kering’s share.
This chess game is not over, yet.
PFW F/W2018. We’ll Always Have Paris.
February 27, 2018
Christian Dior
First, it was the “We should all be feminists” T-shirt, now the “C’est non, non, non et non!” sweater. It’s been 50 years since the student riots in May 1968, and Maria Grazia Chiuri decided to make another social-political statement. Inspired by the tumultuous protesters of 1968 and Diane Vreeland’s “youthquake”, Chiuri wanted to target younger customers but retain Dior’s high-fashion aesthetic and legacy. A wardrobe that is revolutionary but also highly creative.
Saint Laurent
Anthony Vaccarello was inspired by the Yves Saint Laurent’s “Russian Peasant” couture collection of F/W 1976, an extravagant collection in its time. But, Vaccarello gave a more Parisian direction of that elaborated and voluminous collection of Monsieur Saint Laurent. Mini shorts, large brimmed hats, fiercely impressive décolletés and the sparkling Eiffel Tower as a background accessory created a strong, contemporary fashion statement.
February 28, 2018
Maison Margiela
Décortiqué. John Galliano loves to name his collections with French adjectives. In this collection, he stripped down the garments to their essence and just kept their skeletal structure. Unconscious glamour was the collection’s name, but it looked more like ‘Rushed Dressing’ glamour. Coats worn before dresses, blazers before sweaters, holographic coats and a lot of deconstructing garments all over the catwalk. Galliano loves the pair-if-you-dare game of fabrics.
Dries Van Noten
Fashion is good, fashion is nice. It sounds like a mantra but that was the message Dries Van Noten was passing through his collection. We live in a very complicated and wild world, and maybe the Dark Ages are back. But, fashion should reflect the bright side of life. That was what Van Noten’s collection was all about. Utilitarian sportswear, ‘70s glam, and Paul Poiret references. Fashion is good, fashion is nice.
March 1, 2018
Ann Demeulemeester
The dark romanticism of the British poet, William Blake, was what Sébastien Meunier had in mind while creating this strong, aggressive but feminine collection. Clothes for modern amazons. Unfastened leather straps, painted black clothes, but there was also a hint of innocence. Jeanne d’Arc could have been Meunier’s muse for this collection.
March 2, 2018
Loewe
Five classical novels in their native language, with jackets photographed by Steven Meisel, were placed on every chair. “Classicism is always there…sometimes you change the cover and make it relevant for today,” Jonathan Anderson referred to the reading material. Loewe craftsmanship and the meticulously detailed mixing of the fabrics created an updated classic collection.
Balmain
Olivier Rousteing’s “Balmain Army” became fierce disco queens this season. They love wearing ripped jeans with holographic jackets, quilted leather, PVC thigh-high boots, and whatever has a shining effect on the designer’s favorite ‘80s silhouettes.
March 3, 2018
Comme des Garçons
Rei Kawakubo always loves to deconstruct the shape of the clothes and create theatrical figures inspired the history, even if she has stated that she doesn’t like to look back. For this season, CAMP was the name of her collection. She referred to Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on Camp”. “I think camp can express something deeper, and give birth to progress,” Kawakubo wrote in her show notes. The progress of thinking and feeling the world around us.
Altuzarra
Joseph Altuzarra designed a collection that was all about the women he grew up with. His mother, his friends, all the women who work and get dressed to go to the office. La Coupole restaurant at Montparnasse was the perfect choice for this real collection to take place.
March 4, 2018
Givenchy
If someone wants to learn about the ‘80s in East and West Germany, Clare Waight Keller’s collection for Givenchy would be the best fashion history class. Rich faux furs, leather, sharp tailoring and lace created the desired contradiction so as to present those two different sides of a country. Glamour and cruelty.
Valentino
“Sometimes it’s felt as if a woman had to dress like men to be more powerful. Today is a different moment. People can be exactly how they are,” said Pierpaolo Piccioli. Flowers, the symbol of romance, were the collection’s main theme. Flowers that were a reminder of Georgia O’ Keefe paintings but much more minimal. Long dresses, coats, jackets; everything a romantic Valentino woman would wear.
March 5, 2018
Alexander McQueen
A McQueen woman is always powerful, and so was Sarah Burton’s show. Metamorphosis was the name of the collection, and it was an ode to powerful womanhood. Like a caterpillar transforms into a beautiful and ethereal butterfly, so does a girl become a mighty woman. Undoubtedly, throughout the collection butterfly wings had a special place.
Giambattista Valli
“Humanity, much less politics,” Giambattista Valli said backstage. Valli’s collection was a collision between different cultures and politics where everyone accepts each other as they are. A journey through different countries, unique civilizations and unlike mentalities, but with bohemian attitude.
March 6, 2018
Chanel
Karl Lagerfeld always narrates a personal story through each of his shows, and he did so again this time. Twelve old alleys decorated the runway, at Grand Palais, along with a German forest that is usually spotted somewhere in north Hamburg, a memory from Lagerfeld’s childhood. Everything that one needed for a stylish walk into the woods was in the collection.
The #CHANELFallWinter 2018/19 show, presented by Karl Lagerfeld yesterday in Paris. #PFW
A post shared by CHANEL (@chanelofficial) on
Miu Miu
Miu Miu is about girls who love to have fun with fashion. This time, Miuccia Prada mixed the ‘50s and ‘80s and the outcome was an eccentric and colorful collection. Different types of models, but all were referring to strong personalities. One thing in common… they all love the ‘80s powerful dress code.
MFW F/W2018: La Divina Moda.
Hybrids. Clans. Cyborgs. Religion. Everything looked surreal in this still-real-world we live in.
February 21, 2018
Gucci
The fashion week in Milan initiated quite dynamically, shockingly dynamic someone would say. The invitation to Gucci had already prompted that the guests wouldn’t be watching an ordinary runway show. A timer in a plastic bag which counted in reverse until the beginning of the show, that was taking place in a surgery room. Alessandro Michele titled the Gucci show “Cyborg” after Donna Haraway’s 1984 “A Cyborg Manifesto” essay. Two models were carrying their own heads as accessories, another holding a dragon, and a third eye was staring from a model’s forehead. Living in a world full of uncertainty, where many questions have been risen and found no answers, Michele created a hybrid that surpasses dualisms and dichotomies. Velvet dresses, tweed jackets, distressed jeans, and furs covered with tulle. A futuristic collection with a grim touch.
Moschino
It’s very obvious that Jackie Kennedy and Marilyn Monroe were the inspiration for Jeremy Scott’s fall collection for Moschino. Bobbed hair and pillbox hats were reminiscent of the First Lady, but with some Pop Art and alien characteristics. However, it was the bombshell who came out wearing evening looks because something’s got to give.
February 22, 2018
Max Mara
Max Mara is synonymous with powerful and beautiful outwear since its foundation day, back in 1951. With this collection, Max Mara wanted to gain the appreciation of a younger generation. Power dressing with some ’80s punk chic details created a very strong theme. Large coats, leather skirts teamed with slim pants, and T-shirts with Francoise Berthoud illustrations are waiting to be worn by powerful Millennial queens.
Fendi
“Romantic femininity for a powerful woman,” were Silvia Venturini Fendi’s words about the last collection. This time Karl Lagerfeld and Fendi focused on men’s fabrics and detailed tailoring. Double-breasted glossy coats in Prince of Wales checks, handkerchief linen transformed into coat collars and embroidered dresses, Texan boots, and the new version of Peekaboo bag, the Peekaboo X-Lite brought the perfect balance between strong lines and the delicacy of the ‘40s.
Prada
Miuccia Prada decided to match two opposing types of women in order to create a superwoman, who isn’t afraid to fight if needed while wearing something extremely feminine. On the one side, bustier, tulle, and sequins and on the other protective tight knit dresses, and jackets in neon colors were worn as armor. Also, the “Hot Rods” shoes are back, but with an upgrade and perfectly matched with the Fondazione Prada’s view of the post-industrial Milan.
February 23, 2018
Etro
Etro becomes 50 years old and the creative director, Veronica Etro wanted to celebrate it with the most Etro-ish way. Prints and glamorous bohemian aesthetics were the main ingredients for the “Folk Deco” collection. Fringes, suede boots, printed dresses and shearling jackets proved that stylish can be also cozy.
Versace
For the Italians, “La Famiglia” is the most important, and sacred, thing. The family is something that proves where you belong, it’s a form of identity. Maybe that was what Donatella Versace had in mind when she named the last collection “The Clans of Versace.” Tartans, African graphism, total monochrome mixed with a multitude of styles and decades. Many designs were from her brother Gianni, but Donatella produced a collection that belongs in the “Famiglia Versace”.
GUCCI
MOSCHINO
MAX MARA
FENDI
PRADA
ETRO
VERSACE
GIORGIO ARMANI
MISSONI
JIL SANDER
MARNI
DOLCE & GABBANA
TOMMY HILFIGER
February 24, 2018
Giorgio Armani
“Inspired by many cultures as an ode to co-existence as opposed to exclusion,” were Giorgio Armani’s notes about the collection. Clothes in pale colors were succeeded by jackets and then by embellished gowns. The many fabrics created a collection that can travel around the world through textures and design.
Missoni
Missoni is well-known for its zigzagging, multicolored knits. For this season, Angela Missoni created another story mixing Caribbean colors and references to Jamaican colorful layering. Icons such as Lisa Bonet, Basquiat and Hendrix were an inspiration for this ‘70s and early ‘80s super colorful collection.
Jil Sander
A collection inspired by the sci-fi movie “2001: A Space Odyssey”, a nostalgia for what the future holds for humans. Outfits with references to astronaut uniforms that exhaled purity. “We’re surrounded by technology and AI and all these things that are always in the news and in the consciousness. We thought, ‘Why can’t the future be beautiful, soft and human also?’” said Luke Meier backstage.
February 25, 2018
Marni
“Techno-primitivism” is what Francesco Risso named his Fall 2018 Marni show – a contradiction in terms. Marni is a synonym to minimalism, yet this collection was dedicated to the use of contrasting colors, fabrics and prints. It was referring to that type of women who, at the same time, can combine fragility and powerfulness in a creative way. Well-constructed coats and dresses mixing two opposite fabrics produced a weird but very beautiful outcome.
Dolce & Gabbana
A Catholic ceremony with a touch of technology; that was Dolce&Gabbana. When the golden gates opened, eight drones appeared and each of them carried a D&G handbag. “Fashion Devotion” was the title of the collection, and not by chance. Every outfit was inspired by the Catholic church; the colors, the fabrics, the accessories. Even slogan printed t-shirts were referring to Church in some way. A collection made for sin.
Tommy Hilfiger
All started in New York, went to London, then Beijing and now Milan, the fashion capital in Tommy Hilfiger’s mind. It was something like a World Tour or pit stop of racing cars. Hilfiger’s spring #TommyNow see-now-buy-now collection was not only a celebration of his love for fast cars but also a celebration of his partnership with Mercedes-AMG Petronas, through which he will be its official apparel partner. Racing tops and jackets with Hilfiger’s logo, stripes, denim and sheer dresses. Everything looked so authentic. And, Gigi Hadid was there to add more cuteness and youthfulness at this “Fast and Furious” show.
The Latest Departures and Arrivals In the Luxury Fashion Houses
It seems that departures and arrivals from and to the houses will continue in 2018.
In 2017, two creative directors stopped their long-term partnership: Phoebe Philo, who left Céline after 10 years and Christopher Bailey from Burberry after 17 years.
Now, designer Kim Jones exits Louis Vuitton where he has taken over men’s clothing.
“It has been a huge privilege to work with Kim,” said Michael Burke, CEO of Louis Vuitton. “His ability to set trends is impeccable,” Burke continues. “All of us who have been fortunate to work with Kim wish him continued success in his next venture.”
His collaboration with the French house began in 2011. The Saint Martins graduate’s collections exuded a traveling aesthetic inspired by his travels to Asia and Africa. We could say that Jones has an addiction to travel. But, he is also who brought streetwear to Louis Vuitton after his collaboration with Supreme, the famous New York-based streetwear brand, at the AW2017 show.
Many celebrities from the fashion world attended Jones’ last show under the name of Louis Vuitton. Virgil Abloh, Oliver Rousteing, and the Beckham family were among them.
However, the designer had a surprise for the attendees. Supermodels, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, appeared on the catwalk with whom he walked into the show’s finale.
As far as it concerns his next step, Jones has been mentioned as a potential designer for Burberry, after Bailey’s exit.
Also, new arrivals have occurred in several fashion houses. Former Chloé designer, Clare Waight Keller, succeeded Riccardo Tisci after leaving Givenchy in March 2017. And, Natacha Ramsay Levi took the helm after Keller’s departure from Chloé.
A few days ago, Hedi Slimane, one of the leading fashion designers joined Céline.
Recently, LVMH announced that Slimane, who previously served Dior Homme and Saint Laurent, takes on his role in February 2018, while his first collection will be shown in September during Paris Fashion Week.
In his new role, Slimane will be the artistic, creative and image director of Céline, while he will introduce a men’s collection and a fragrance.
“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH group and taking the reins of our Céline maison,” said the LVMH chairman and CEO, Bernard Arnault. “He is one of the most talented designers of our
time. I have been a great admirer of his work since we collaborated on Dior Homme (2000-2007). His arrival at Céline reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this maison.”
“I am delighted to join Bernard Arnault in this all-embracing and fascinating mission for Céline,” said Slimane. “ I greatly look forward to returning to the exciting world of fashion and the dynamism of the ateliers.”
But actually, he never left fashion. Since Slimane left Saint Laurent, in April 2016, he continued to work on his photo projects, but he liked to talk publicly about his return to the fashion design.
