Interview with STORM’S Noelle Doukas And Christopher Yianoullou
Noelle and Christopher have over twenty-five years experience between them, spent working at the forefront of the modeling industry. Both agents exude bright dynamic personalities with an obvious passion for the talent they represent.
We chat about STORM, which has been one of the most influential model agencies since Sarah Doukas, Noelle’s mother, opened its doors in 1987, and move onto the innovations within the market and the changes of their model requirements.
FMD: What are the key attributes that STORM looks for when scouting for models?
Chris: We look for standards like height and beautiful skin and great bone structure, but our industry has started to celebrate the more unique aspects of the girl – who she is and what she’s about; her style, her personality. There is much more to it, and you can’t just scout by looking at someone, you really need to talk to that person and get a feel for who they are. Clients like ASOS and Urban Outfitters want to do more profile pieces, and they want real people, so it makes it more fun for us because [models] don’t have to be strictly 5’10” minimum anymore. It’s more flexible, and more fun; so yeah it’s about character more than anything really.
FMD: Whenever you bring international models into London; what is your process, and does STORM have specific facilities to accommodate them?
Noelle: It all depends on how long you are bringing girls in for, and also what you are bringing them in for. There are some girls we bring in for periods of time, say two to three months; in which case you set them up in a house. We do have model apartments, but we also have a wide range of people who are like second moms who look after them, because it is quite daunting if they have never been into the territory before. Obviously, if it’s a girl who has never been to the UK, we take a bit of time explaining how to get around, because the girls have go-sees or castings every day. They probably have four to five castings a day. So, they kind of hit the ground running really. Sometimes, we try to set them up with other girls so they get a feel for what they are doing. We do have an assistant on board that goes through everything with them, and gives them a UK phone and tries to introduce them to transport etc. London’s enormous isn’t it, so expecting these girls to go to appointment to appointment is really quite daunting.
FMD: Are the castings based in London or all over the UK?
Noelle: They are completely sporadic. With castings, you can’t dictate what time it is, what area it is, so a girl could be coming from E1 and then having to go to SE11 (London postcodes with a distance of five miles) and she’s got a small amount of time to do it. If you get a bigger international girl, say she’s here for three days, it’s easier to put them in a car. They are doing a ton of appointments a day, back to back. I mean, since Uber’s come around it’s changed things quite a bit. It’s not that expensive to Uber from one place to another.
FMD: Uber’s made a model’s life a lot easier.
Noelle: It makes it probably a lot easier. I do feel for them though. I have done go-sees and castings with one girl once, and I thought, “I do feel sorry for them.”
Chris: It’s not as glamorous as you think.
FMD: Describe the London Market and Clientele.
Noelle: Well, I think first of all we’ve got the best editorial, I would say in the world, because we have the high-end publications like Vogue, Harpers, and Elle, and we also have the really kind of cool magazines like Dazed, and Wonderland. Now, there are a lot of online publications, there’s a pop-up magazine every day.
Chris: It’s a super creative city, with all the great designers and fashion schools. The students’ work is incredible here.
Noelle: It’s a good market to develop a girl because, as I’ve said, when we’ve got such a wide range of editorials; it’s good to develop their books. But, I think another great thing about London is that we have the advertising, the catalogues, and the E-com, and so a girl is pretty much guaranteed to make a nice amount of money. I mean the British pound is pretty shocking at the moment, but prior to that, it was great! No, it’s a great city! Our Fashion week is better than it ever has been before. I think a lot more girls are coming to London to do the shows, it’s a lot more relevant. So, I would say London’s definitely kind of an all-rounder. You know the only other thing is there is not as much competition, because most girls base themselves in New York, at which point you’re competing with x amount of girls, as opposed to a less amount of cool, international new faces.
FMD: How easy is it for new models to acclimate to the London Market?
Chris: I think for the younger girls it’s actually quite nice. We’re an English speaking country; the Tube (Underground) is pretty self-explanatory, and the English culture is very polite, and we like to help!
Noelle: They do get chaperoned though, if they are too young. We’d never let a girl under eighteen go out on her own, ever.
Chris: Yeah, and that also helps when they get settled in, there’s an English person there to teach them the ropes, the underground etc., how it works. We’ve never had any problems.
FMD: You mentioned that STORM has model apartments; are there strict rules enforced for the people staying in them?
Noelle: I wish we did, it’s a nightmare! It’s funny, model apartments are generally there for brand new girls, but sometimes girls end up living there for a couple of years. Some girls are actually messier maybe than boys, from what the cleaners tell us. (laugh)
Chris: Yeah, it’s bad! (laugh)
Noelle: It’s not good! It’s not good! I can’t understand it because I think if you can do this to someone else’s house, would you actually do this in your own house? I don’t think they would. Occasionally, we have to get pest control, painters and decorators coming in, or there are doors being broken off hinges or whatever it is. They’re young kids aren’t they; they’re not at home with their parents. I do get girls specifically saying, “I don’t want to stay in a model apartment”. We have a group of really lovely people who rent out rooms, and you know, I think they like it, the international girls who’ve not been here before, they feel kind of nurtured. It’s actually nice to be in a family environment.
FMD: What would you say are the most important qualities models should have?
Noelle: A voice and a personality for sure. I’ve seen the most beautiful girls in the world that have no personality, and I’m not meaning that in a derogative way, I just mean that, I think it’s like dating actually; you can think ‘oh, you’re fairly attractive’, but it’s the connection you have that actually develops how they come across, how you relate to that person – and actually personalities can make or break someone. You meet someone who’s really arrogant and full of themselves, and all that beauty just completely diminishes, whereas someone with a great personality can win you over in a different way, and you see a totally different side of them.
For me, if I were a casting director, it would be that. And it’s interesting to see how [it affects modeling], say you bring in a girl you don’t know particularly well, and she gets 30 options in a month and not one of them confirms, you start to think ‘there’s something not quite right there’, or you can get a girl that you weren’t entirely sure about but she has an amazing personality and her chart is full of red confirmations.
Chris: It’s true though!
FMD: Is there a common mistake that stands out as something models repeat over and over again?
Noelle: I would probably say approaching things with too much negativity.
Chris: Yeah, I was about to say that – or over thinking.
Noelle: When they start to analyze too much, girls can get very down on themselves, and I think that can come across to people. You can get yourself into a hole and it’s difficult to climb back out of it.
But I think it’s like that for everyone, for everything in life. I always write my Gratitudes down every day, things that I’m grateful for. If you try and make yourself feel more positive, then positivity comes back to you. But, I think when you go into anything with a negative view; it’s not going to turn itself around. You’ve got to be strong, and I think you’ve got to have a strong backbone. But saying this, I personally wouldn’t want to be judged on my looks every day of my life. It takes a certain quality of person.
Chris: Yeah, everyone thinks it’s an easy job, but…
Noelle: It’s one of the hardest. The worst thing a girl could ever do is to have a negative view on the industry, or herself, or whatever it is, you know, unless they’re enjoying it, loving it, I try to discourage them doing it at all. Because I think they’re so young, surely in that age group you’re supposed to be having the time of your life, not scrutinizing every part of yourself.
How To Recover From Fashion Month
Has Fashion Month Left You Feeling Like You've Been Hit By A Wrecking Ball?
Fashion Month is now over, and you are left with sore feet, dry skin, brittle hair, flaking soft nails, and the feeling that you could sleep for a week. We would suggest that you take a vacation, like a number of models do, but what if you don’t have the time or opportunity to do that? We have a few easy and affordable ways to recover, and get you back to your modeling career.
From The Inside Out
DRINK WATER!: Between all the flying and cold temperatures during fashion month, it is easy to get dehydrated. Since your body is 50-60% water, drinking water will give you an overall recovery. Avoid caffeine and alcohol for a little while as they increase dehydration.
EAT FOODS RICH WITH PROTEIN AND CALCIUM: Such as meat, fish, eggs, almonds, and tofu. Not only do these foods boost your energy and metabolism, but they also give you vibrant skin and strong nails and hair.
BIOTIN: If you can't consume enough nutrients in your food, take a biotin supplement. It contains Vitamin B which helps strengthen your hair, nails, and skin. CONSULT YOUR PHYSICIAN BEFORE TAKING ANY SUPPLEMENTS. Nature's Bounty Super Potency Biotin ($13.49 Walgreens.com)
INCREASE YOUR VITAMIN C & ZINC INTAKE: They have multiple health benefits, but the one that is most important after all the travel and long hours is their ability to strengthen your immune system. Foods to include in your diet are; citrus fruits, pumpkin seeds, oatmeal, almond milk, broccoli, red and green bell peppers, cabbage and chickpeas.
Skin
LEAVE THE MAKEUP ALONE: With a month of makeup artists painting your face at least 2 or 3 times a day, let your skin breathe! Avoid wearing makeup - unless you have a job or modeling appointment that requires it. This will keep your pores clean and also minimize dryness. Plus, you may notice that your eyelashes and eyebrows will grow back!
EXFOLIATE: It's not only makeup, and the dullness from late nights, that you are removing, but also bacteria from the recycled air in airplanes. Exfoliate a couple times a week, or better yet - go get a facial! We love Lush Ocean Salt Scrub. ($21.95 Lushusa.com)
FACE MASKS: Cold weather, copious amounts of makeup application and air travel wreak havoc on the skin. Rehydrate it with a face mask or two. We recommend GLAMGLOW SUPERMUD® Clearing Treatment. ($59 Sephora)
FACE BALMS AND OILS: Hydrate! Hydrate! Hydrate! It's the keyword post-fashion month. Continue repairing dry skin with a face oil or balm. We absolutely love Epicuren's Soothe Dermal Repair Balm. ($68.50 Epicuren.com)
WEAR SPF: While you are in the repair phase, you will need to protect your healing skin from the sun's rays. But, no matter what the weather, always apply sunscreen! Try Avène Antirougeurs Day Redness Relief Soothing Cream SPF 25.($37.00 Aveneusa.com)
Hair
PREVENT ADDITIONAL HAIR LOSS AND BREAKAGE: If you have suffered hair loss due to the hours of teasing, combing, crazy updos and blowdrying, avoid pulling your hair back into tight ponytails or buns. Instead, use small hair claws to keep a few strands back along the temples or do a low loose chignon, bun or pony if you need to pull it all back. We love No Slip Grip Tortoise Shell Hair Claws ($5.99 Claires.com)
SKIP A DAY OR TWO OF HAIR WASHING: Shampooing your hair on a daily basis strips its natural oils which will increase dryness and breakage. Try washing your hair every other day or better yet, every three days - unless of course, you have bookings or castings! Don't forget to add a deep cleansing shampoo and rich moisturizing conditioner that contain natural products, like Aveeno® Active Naturals® Pure Renewal™ Shampoo. ($5.99 Target.com)
NO BRUSHING OR TOWEL DRYING WET HAIR: Use your fingers or a large tooth comb to detangle your locks. If you need to dry your hair, gently pat with a towel. Being too rough will cause more breakage, and knots that you will have to try and comb through.Try Mason Pearson Rake Comb ($35 Neimanmarcus.com)
AVOID HEAT DAMAGE: Unless your job requires it, put down the hair dryer, curler and straightener. Heated appliances will cause more damage to your hair. If you really have to use them, apply some heat protector beforehand. Also, keep the temperature of the appliance on its lowest level. We like Insta Natural Argan Oil Thermal Protector Spray ($9.97 Instanatural.com)
Nails
NAILS IN THE BUFF: If you were given multiple manicures during fashion month that involved acrylics, gels, and rhinestones, your nails are probably paying for it now. Try to keep your nails bare and natural for as long as possible, so they can restore to their natural state. Of course, you can still visit the nail salon and get your manis and pedis, but request that your nails be buffed - not polished.
APPLY CUTICLE OIL: Not only will extensive nail art cause your nails to get brittle and dry but also the cold weather in the fashion capitals. Rehydrate your cuticles with oils or creams. We like CND® Nail & Cuticle Treatment Solar Oil - 0.5 fl oz ($12.49 Target.com)
WEAR GLOVES: Cracked skin and flaking nails are really difficult to treat during the winter months. By wearing gloves, it will keep your hands warmer, therefore locking in moisture. If you are lucky enough to be back in warm weather, you may still want to consider wearing household gloves while doing any chores. They will protect your hands and nails from dryness when over washing hands and handling cleaning products.
Feet
STAY OFF THE HEELS: After walking miles and miles in sky-high stilettos, it's time to stay grounded and let your poor feet rest. With the exception of any modeling duties, wear well-supported flats for a couple of weeks.
TREAT BLISTERS: Clean any blisters that you might have and then apply ointment, such as Neosporin, followed with a band-aid. This will help them heal faster and prevent any infection.
SOAK AND EXFOLIATE: Aside from the fact that it feels like heaven to soak your feet in warm water, it also softens them to help remove dead skin. After 20 minutes or so, apply a foot scrub. If you have callouses or a large amount of dry skin, you may want to exfoliate with a pumice stone afterwards. Finally, finish off with some foot cream to lock in the moisture. We love L’Occitane Shea Butter Foot Cream. ($29 Sephora.com)
MASSAGE FEET AND CALVES: Yes, a tennis ball! It works like a charm to loosen stiff muscles and tendons in your feet and calves.
LFW F/W2018: Hail the Fashion Mix!
Britishness. Color explosion. Print mix. Feminine empowerment. And Queen Elizabeth II first appearance at LFW. God save LFW!
February 16, 2018
Mulberry
“It’s all about the bag!” someone might think at the sound of the name Mulberry, the British well-known for its handbags brand. True but, the see-now, buy-now Spring 2018 collection was more like the tea party scene from Alice in Wonderland. A patisserie color palette and shoes with colorful ruffles and porcelain cups inspired rounded heels are the perfect choices for a garden party.
Matty Bovan
Matty Bovan is one of the rising stars on the London fashion scene. With his first solo show, he proved that he’s not only a good tailor since the main pieces of the collection were inspired by his late grandmother’s wardrobe, but he’s also a great showman. The tulle headdresses filled with balloons, designed by Stephen Jones, stole the show.
February 17, 2018
J.W. Anderson
“I was trying to think what is modern today and what is modern is what is next. Now is an amazing moment of clear-out and I think let’s go and find what’s new,” Jonathan Anderson said about his collection. He had to look back to his first collections and get inspiration from them. Paisleys, trench coats and khakis. It was a very different collection to what he does for LOEWE. It was a younger and more optimistic collection.
Burberry
Christopher Bailey’s last show for Burberry was a TIME to remember. This time wasn’t about Burberry, it was about a celebration of individuality. To that end, Bailey showed everything he believes in. Gay rights, optimism, youthfulness, and British streetwear were a look back to all those years he worked at Burberry. The bright LGBTQ+ rainbow colors appeared in most pieces, which became the signature of his last collection.
Gareth Pugh
This collection was all about power dressing. For once more, Pugh demolished the feminine silhouette and created a stiffer and more well-constructed one. Pagoda-shouldered tailoring, high-waisted trousers, leopard prints and a Hellraiser nail helmet made the collection serious armor. No one will ever dare to mess around with a Pugh’s woman.
February 18, 2018
Roland Mouret
“The Eyes of Laura Mars,” a 1978 movie, starring Faye Dunaway, is about power, femininity and image control. One of Roland Mouret’s favorite movies and the inspiration for his collection. He wanted to address the current theme of women’s harassment in the workplace, and he did it. Tapestry-like fabrics, wrap skirts but also laced dresses and football socks gave his collection the perfect balance between sensuality and modesty.
Mary Katrantzou
Mary Katrantzou is the “Queen of Prints,” and once again she demonstrated that she can reduce the distance between two very different design styles. Her “Interior Lives” collection was inspired by furniture and prints from William Morris and Bauhaus. A very paradoxical marriage with a very creative outcome. And yes, a Chesterfield sofa can turn into a bomber jacket!
February 19, 2018
Erdem
For his melancholy collection, Erdem Moralioglu chose as his inspiration the American vaudeville star Adele Astaire, sister of Fred Astaire. Beautiful, rich and romantic this collection could only be named. A showgirl who married an aristocrat. A collision of two different worlds. On the one side sparkling dresses and glittering capes, on the other jacquard dresses and thin black face veils. It worked since his collection told the story he had in mind.
Christopher Kane
“I’ve always been about human behavior, and I’ve always had some sort of sexual behavior in the collections,” Christopher Kane said after he presented his “The Joy of Sex “ by Alex Comfort illustrations inspired collection. Dominatrix leather dresses, knits that revealed the bra strap, and a lot of lace, “lover’s lace” as it called. Beautiful, provocative and sensual collection.
February 20, 2018
Richard Quinn
“She’s known for her sense of humor, and she’s seen a lot in her life. I don’t think a gimp mask will shock the Queen,” Richard Quinn said about the possible need of muting the designer’s signature bondage theme due to Queen Elizabeth II’s attendance at his show. Quinn’s collection was a tribute to Her Majesty’s Balmoral wardrobe. Prints, scarves beautifully paired with pleated chiffon skirts and oversized bomber jackets. At the end of the show, Quinn was awarded by Her Majesty with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, as a recognition of his talent and contribution to the fashion community.
